With Pitti Uomo 87 striking a particularly dapper edition with a vintage menswear feel, we look at the clothing trends that stood out on the well-dressed attendees of this now world-famous menswear trade show where the street style photographers are poised to capture both the peacocks and the refined.
Traditional Tailoring, Bright Colors
It’s no surprise now to see that Pitti draws gentlemen from across the world who appreciate a well cut suit – but what stood out and moved things forward this year was the bright colors used in winter clothes, garments which are normally executed in a much more muted fashion. Strong mustards, oranges, vibrant tweeds and even deep reds were seen in all garment types and not just in accessories. Anyone for a scarlet tweed jacket?
Summertime, in Britain at least, is traditionally the time when a striped blazer can be worn for sunny and social sporting occasions such as Wimbledon or the famous Oxford vs Cambridge boat race. Or perhaps if you have happen to own your own yacht. That didn’t stop Pitti’s dandyish gentlemen donning bold striped blazers to eye-catching effect and gaining the attention of every street style photographer’s lens in the grey skies of Florence in winter.
Checks, Tartans and Prince of Wales
Certainly not a ‘new’ print or trend in menswear, but definitely one which refuses to die. There seems to be a check, tartan or Prince of Wales style of pattern for just about every man, whether your taste in clothing is understated or bold. For the more reserved, choose a smaller, subtle check. For the adventurous – make a statement in bright tartan.
Carrying on from the above is the resurgence of the trend for younger men to wear heavy tweeds, traditionally a fabric reserved for our fathers and grandfathers but with an ‘oversized’ cut heavy tweed particularly seen in outerwear, the look can be made modern.
Washed Cotton Trousers
The split at Pitti for those wearing a full suit and those opting for a ‘spezzato’ look of separate blazer and separate trousers seemed to be at about 50/50. Those that did choose the ‘spezzato’ look tended heavily towards a brightly colored washed cotton chino – faded reds, bright blues and grass greens were all seen in play. We recommend these pieces by specialist Italian trouser maker PT01 to coordinate with your blazer or sports jacket.
Shoes are an opportunity at Pitti for even the most conservative of dressers to express their personality and make a statement. From the highly burnished to the incredibly detailed brogue, there was a striking shoe worn by almost every attendee. Most notable though were the buckled and the double monk.
Milan Style’s Picks